AustLit

'It has been said of music journalism, that writing about music is like dancing about architecture, a flawed and pointless exercise, the wrong medium for the artform. One might regard surf writing similarly. Perhaps the point of surf writing is that the experience is so fleeting and elusive that attempting to convey it in literary form stretches any writer to their limits. It is an open-ended challenge in which we are almost destined to fail but compelled to try anyway, like paddling out in a tumultuous sea, or taking off on a close-out.

'This paper provides an historic overview of literary efforts to conjure the ethereal, multi-sensory experience of wave-riding, not just surf writing in general, but specifically efforts to describe the physical act of wave riding. I have written about surfing, as a career, for over 35 years, and am often struck by how little surf writing is focussed on describing the act itself. Most surf writing concerns itself with character profiles of elite surfers, exotic travel, competition, social and environmental issues that impact surfing. In the context of the popular surf media, images are the hero, better able to capture the splendour and magic of wave-riding, where words may seem inadequate.' (Publication abstract)

'An epic music production inspired by the story of Churaki; an Aboriginal man heralded as the Gold Coast’s first surf lifesaver.

'Churaki, a Goodjingburra man, performed the first documented act of lifesaving on the Gold Coast in 1911. This was one of many daring rescues he carried out in the early 1900's as the surf bathing craze took hold.

'A heroic story, largely unknown, The Spirit of Churaki honours a rich lineage of saltwater people, a spirit of generosity, a deep connection to country and cultural obligation.

'Starring an extraordinary line up of legendary Australian musicians under the musical direction of Brian Ritchie (Violent Femmes) and cultural collaborator Kyle Slabb (Banaam) with evocative visuals by renowned artist Vernon Ah Kee, this production is a musical collaboration united by the spirit of the surf.

'Presented as a full night of entertainment, The Spirit of Chuarki rides the perfect wave between traditional ceremony, the ancient sounds of Aboriginal language and compelling music theatre, closing with a cyclonic set by Australian surf rock legends, The Break.'

Source: Festival 2018.

'In Ciudad Real, Mexico, women are being thrown into the trash - raped, murdered and mutilated. The police have reported 300 deaths of young maquiladora girls from the factories, yet not found a single clue or suspect. But union agitator Pilar knows the number of deaths is more like 800, and that the lazy and corrupt police are the least likely to resolve the situation.Fuentes is a different kind of police officer. When his colleagues start shutting down his investigations into the deaths, he knows the roots of this mass-murder cover-up must stretch wide - into his own force. Some of his colleagues are definitely on the payroll with narco thugs like El Santo. But why is Padre Marcio, Mexico's hallowed orphan rescuer, appearing in the investigation too?The more Fuentes and Pilar learn, the more they find themselves in danger. Can the two of them expose the truth when so many around them want to bury it?' (Publication summary)

'Nick Alston, a Los Angeles private investigator, is hired to find the kidnapped son of America's richest and most hated man. Hastings, a mob hitman in search of redemption, is also on the trail. But both men soon become ensnared by a sinister cabal that spreads from the White House all the way to Dealey Plaza. Decades later in Dallas, Alston's son stumbles across evidence from JFK conspiracy buffs that just might link his father to the shot heard round the world.'

Source: Publisher's blurb.

'All surfers dream of shedding responsibilities and answering the siren's call of ocean swells. For most, it is an ideal that recedes as age advances - as family, career and provider fatigue threatens to overwhelm the wanderlust of youth.

'But what if you could defy the slow march of age? Shelve all your worldly pressures, pack up the family and a few trusty surfboards and hit the open road for the Great Australian surfing road trip? Inspired by the dreams of his youth, surf writer Tim Baker embarks on the Big Lap in search of the perfect wave and domestic bliss.

'Surfari documents the state of surf culture and our coastline, and the array of colourful characters who inhabit these parts, evoking all the magic, charm and challenges such a lifestyle entails. It is a story for anyone who has ever dreamed of an alternative to the busy, micro-scheduled existence of work, school, shopping and the daily drudge.

'The result is a lively, colourful account of what happens when you trade your life for another variety, and the delights and dangers that lay in wait when you dare to chase your dreams and follow another path.' (From the publisher's website.)

"In October 1980, struggling with small waves on the fledgling pro tour, Simon Anderson stuck three fins on a surfboard and changed surfing forever. Now, for the first time, on the 30th Anniversary of his historic breakthrough, Simon tells the entire remarkable story of how a kid from Collaroy graduated to Narrabeen and then took on the surfing world. 

Three decades after he took a dilemma to inspire a revolutionary solution, Simon is in high demand as a shaper to the world's best surfers and continues to influence the course of surfing history. From longboards to short, singles to twins to thrusters, Aussie titles to the pro tour, Simon's story mirrors the progression of modern surfing. 

With tales from surfing legends such as; Phil Jarratt, Derek Hynd, Andrew Kidman, Hugh McLeod, and Terry Fitzgerald along with photos by Hugh McLeod, Peter Crawford, Frank Pithers, Jeff Divine, Peter Simons, Mick McCormack, Dan Merkel, and many more, Thrust is one book every surfer should have..."

Source: Publisher's blurb.

'Mick Fanning is young, but he's had many experiences that most of us never will. How does it feel to lose a brother? Win a world title? Rip your hamstring muscle clean off the bone? Weave through a zippering Superbank barrel for 20 or 30 seconds or paddle over the ledge at places like Pipeline and Teahupo? Have scoliosis so bad you can't get off the floor? Address the New South Wales state of origin team before a match, bowl to Matty Hayden, and have Dave Warner belt you for consecutive sixes? Mick tells his life story candidly—in turns funny, sensitive, thoughtful, self-deprecating—while providing intimate insights into the personal lessons gained along the way—with practical tips on surfing technique, fitness, nutrition, board design, travel, competitive strategies, and mental clarity. Mick has overcome personal tragedy and career-threatening injury on his way to claiming the 2007 world surfing title. Universally acknowledged as the most focused and driven competitive surfer of his era, his approach to surfing, sports psychology, life, and relationships makes fascinating reading. The essential principles of perseverance, hard work, and overcoming obstacles in pursuit of your dreams will inspire anyone.' (Publication summary)

'"Occy was always a missile going hyperspeed, about to blow up at any moment. - it's true of so many highly intelligent or gifted people . . . All of his passion was put into his surfing." Kelly Slater, eight-time world champion.

'Child star at sixteen, ranked third in the world at seventeen, winner of the Pipeline Masters at nineteen - Mark Occhilupo looked set to sweep all before him with a radical, spontaneous, irresistible brand of surfing. Yet a spiralling descent into drug abuse and depression snuffed his flame out prematurely when he quit the pro tour at just twenty-two. Faltered comebacks, spectacular bursts of free-surfing and manic breakdowns followed, as the surfing world watched a freakish talent self-combust.

'After years spent immobile and overweight on the couch, in his so-called "Elvis period", Occy eventually emerged from his cocoon, reborn and ready to tackle a whole new generation of surf stars. His celebrated comeback to win the world title in 1999, sixteen years after his career began, is a sporting fairytale without equal. Now for the first time, in his own words, Occy tells the complete, remarkable story of his spectacular rise, terrifying fall and miraculous rebirth.' (Publisher's blurb)

"An illustrated anthology of the best of Australian surf writing. 'together they paddled hard to meet the rearing, feathered swells. Everywhere was spray and sunlight and upreaching force. Leaper and his companion scrambled atop the first and skittered down its back into the path of the next, leaving behind the sound of an avalanche.' - Tim Winton. Paddle the Ka'iwi Channel between Hawaiian islands with Tom Carroll. Roam the mean streets of Maroubra with Koby Abberton. Cruise remotest Indonesia on a luxury surf charter with Kelly Slater. Trade waves and wild yarns with Nat Young in Angourie. Search the remote Victorian coastline with Wayne Lynch. Dodge cleanup sets at Jaws and Mavericks with the world's top big wave surfers. Trace the last days of surfing's black knight Miki Dora. Ponder the ancient origins of surfing, tackle circus gorillas in Peru, and feel the ground shake as a huge swell hits the North Shore of Oahu this collection of great Australian surf stories sheds new light on the 'moveable feast' that is modern surfing, and gives an intimate insider's view of the mad compulsion to ride waves - whatever the costs. If you've never surfed, these stories will make you want to start. If you already surf, they'll remind you why you're never going to stop."

(Publisher's Blurb)

"From street urchin to world surfing champion to boardroom heavyweight, this edition of the bestselling cult classic captures all the intrigue and adventure of Wayne 'Rabbit' Bartholomew's remarkable personal journey. World Champion in 1978, World Masters Champion in 1999, and CEO/President of the Association of Surfing Professionals for ten years, Rabbit's charisma, flamboyance and warrior spirit have helped define surfing over three decades. In 2009, he was honoured for his contribution to surfing, being appointed a Member of the Order of Australia. BUStIN' DOWN tHE DOOR is a story of unfaltering self-belief, of immense hardship and struggle, and of hilariously wild times, as Rabbit sets off from Australia's Gold Coast, surfboard under his arm, to conquer the surfing world. From spartan days of living on rice and oats while tackling the huge waves of Hawaii, to a glorious rollercoaster ride of parties, fast cars and perfect waves, Rabbit recalls outrageous adventures shared with surfing's most famous figures - including Nat Young, Michael Peterson, Mark Richards, tom Carroll and Kelly Slater."

(Publisher's blurb)